February 22, 2025 9:38 am
The way up is made possible by a metal staircase zigzagging its way to the top. It doesn’t look so bad from down here.
But from up there looking down it is a little daunting
And from up there looking out……………..
what were we thinking ?
Just to the right of the cliff face (above) you can see the path through the water garden, where we started this adventure.
The stairs are metal with handrails, which is certainly easier than the previous rock steps. But they are steep. The handrails are open and each step has a gap between them which allows for a clear view of how high up you are and how far you have to fall. Not a good idea!
Plus the stairs are narrow and allow very little passing room, which might not be so bad if it wasn’t for the fact that it is two way traffic. As I press myself against the open railing to allow someone to squeeze past, I wish I was so much thinner. But if I was, I would probably slip between the railings and become a bloody mess at the lion’s feet.
Some people are bounding up the stairs, some are stopping every few steps to catch their breath. I am going slowly, but even I want to pass those who stop all the time, but there just isn’t the space. The young and the fit (neither of those would be me) get impatient and start pushing. It is not helpful.
There are over 500 of these metal steps. It takes a while, but I make it to the top, where Gordon is waiting for me. He takes this photo of me on the next to last step. I can still manage a smile.
I did it!
I WhatsApped a picture to Desha.
He didn’t reply.
So I sent him a photo of the view from the top, which makes it quite clear that there was no need to get up at 4am to see the sunrise.
And still he didn’t reply!
The first person I saw at the top was not actually a person
Don’t worry, despite appearances, it is not dead. Just exhausted from the climb. Amazingly there are dozens of stray dogs wandering around up here. How the hell did they get up here, and how do they survive?
And then I hear laughter. I look for the source and find 6 young women who look to be around 20 years old. They are doing a celebratory dance, a bit like the Rockettes. In the middle of the line up is an elderly Indian man joining in and managing a few high kicks. They are all in hysterics.
A little later I meet him. He is on his own, and not with the women, he just thought it would be fun to join in. He is 81.2 years old (his words) and puts me to shame. Smartly dressed as if he was going out to dinner rather than climbing 1,200 steps up a rock face, he puts me to shame again. He was full of joy and laughter and was a delight. We were instantly the best of friends
Sometime later our paths cross again, as we make our way down. Still laughing, he was going “Beep Beep” as he came across people going slower than him. I want to be like him when I am his age. Actually I want to be like him now!
Sigiriya is considered to be one of the most important urban planning sites of the first millennium, and the remains of the Kings Palace and grounds on the flat top of the rock are still clearly visible
There is little to tell us what we are actually looking at, but we wander around in awe of this incredible palace and the amazing people who built it.
A man made cistern for the collection of water is truly striking
And somehow the Kings throne has remained intact.
Surely he could have arranged for something more comfortable. A few cushions would help. A lot of cushions would help even more.
We put it off for as long as we can, but finally we have to face the climb down. Although it is not nearly as strenuous, it is terrifying
Halfway down the metal steps there is a detour.
There are no steps, which is good, but everything else about it is not.
The west wall of the rock is vertical and the king had it turned into a giant granite picture gallery with paintings of over 500 hundred women, all of them topless. No one quite knows their identity but it is believed they are the ladies of the King. He seemed like a very busy man. After climbing up to the top of the rock, I am surprised he had the energy for one lady, let alone 500!
How the artists managed to accomplish these paintings belies belief. Unfortunately being so exposed to the elements means that nothing of them remains. However there is a small cave, called the “Cobra Hood Cave” where the paintings were sheltered and have survived, and that is where the walkway is leading.
But there is one more obstacle to face, perhaps the most frightening of them all, a narrow spiral staircase
When we reach the top there is a tour guide giving a detailed talk to his bunch of tourists. No one can see into the cave. No one can get past them. A guard at the top tries to make them move on, but the tour guide ignores him and keeps talking. A long line of people cram the circular staircase behind them. Murmurs of discontent are getting louder, but to no avail. The tour guide and his tourists have no intention of moving. They are French. That explains everything.
Finally we get a quick look at the remarkable cave and its paintings
We don’t tarry. There is a long line behind us, and we are polite and thoughtful. We are English not French.
From here on, it’s all downhill!
It has been the most amazing experience. The Fabulosity Meter has been desperate to make a lot of noise, but it’s not good at altitude.
Posted by andrew
Categories: Uncategorized
Tags: adventure, lion-rock, nature, sigiriya, sri-lanka, travel
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No Way! Even the photos exhausted me. Bravo boys especially Andrew.
By awc49 on February 22, 2025 at 11:43 am
Thank you Tony, but the “especially” should go to Gordon. He managed to do it without stopping and without gasping for breath . Impressive!
By andrew on February 22, 2025 at 1:32 pm
I had visions of this being your last blog. Glad it wasn’t / isn’t – well done. The heights alone were scary enough.
By Paul P on February 25, 2025 at 9:16 pm
great photos! you are really good at showing the scene and candid portraits!
By Chicago FSBO girl on June 12, 2025 at 5:42 pm