If Carcassonne is too much like Disneyland for you, then all you have to do is drive for 50 minutes in a north east direction and you come across a village, much smaller, much quieter, but just as breathtaking.

We approach it via a tortuously winding road through stark mountainous country that is well worth a visit on its own account.

And then after one more turn in the road we get our first view of the medieval village of Minerve, perched on a rocky outcrop and surrounded by two huge gorges.

Carcassonne had to build their amazing fortress walls. Minerve had them ready made.

But it wasn’t enough.

In the 12th and 13th centuries Minerve was a centre for the Cathar religion, a religion that believed in two Gods, one good and one evil. Not so very different from God and the Devil, but they were viewed as heretics by the Catholic church. In 1210 Simon de Montfort, a French nobleman and one of the great military commanders of the Middle Ages, laid seige to the town. The town knew what was coming and had done what it could in preparation. They had built four trebuchets, a giant medieval sling used to launch huge rocks at the enemy. It was the weapon of choice before canons and guns. Actually it was about the only weapon.

And when rocks were hard to find, they fired dead bodies at the enemy. They might not inflict as much damage, but hopefully they would spread disease amongst the enemy. An early version of germ warfare!

The seige went on for 5 weeks but eventually Minerve fell. 180 Cathars living in Minerve refused to convert to Catholicism, and were all burned alive. The story goes that they marched down this very street towards the pyre

The street is still known as the Street of the Martyrs, even though it looks so picturesque.

In fact the entire town has the Fabulosity Meter going crazy.

Here are some views of it taken from the road as we enter

It is impossible to drive the car into the village. There is a parking lot. And then we walk.

It provides a different and equaly amazing perspective

The village itself is full of narrow streets, arches, steps and vistas. And there is no one there. It is amazing.

It even has the smallest public toilet ever

You actually have to squat BEFORE you enter!

Minerve is a wonderful find, and such a contrast to Carcassonne. There are only a couple of tiny tourist shops, one restaurant and a fascinating bookstore that also sells coffee.

Just what we need.

Inside there is a small table with a couple sitting at it. They are in deep conversation with the owner

As we enter, their conversation comes to an abrupt stop. I give them my best smile and my best French accent as I say “Bonjour”.

Not one of them answers.

Instead, the couple look at the owner, shrug and say “Anglais”. It is said loud enough for me to hear. It is not meant as a complement.

France is so beautiful.

If only it didn’t have the French.