The ship heads back the way we came. We pass Hercules Bay and move a few miles further west to Fortuna Bay. The Bay sits at the end of a 3 mile fjord. Surrounded by alpine peaks and glaciers with a huge plain of tussock grass and grassland it is a spectacular sight under an unexpectedly brilliant blue sky with not a cloud to be seen. The temperature reaches the low 40’s (5 to 6 centigrade) which is heatwave territory for this part of the world

We have come here because it is home to some 20,000 king penguins. As we clamber on to the beach from the zodiac, we are greeted by a procession of penguins heading our way. They seem to be as keen to check us out as we are to see them

It is a wonderful sight, but our guides don’t want us to linger on the beach as it is a favorite spot for elephant seals to hang out and they are dangerous animals.

We are told to make our way to the main colony which is at the back of the plain to the side of the glacier.

It is a beautiful spot, but it doesn’t look as interesting as the beach, for penguin viewing. It is a long walk for us, and would seem to be a very long walk for the penguins.

But the penguins are smart and know that their main predator, the adult fur seal, cannot walk that far and so it is a safe place for them to breed.

The plain is full of busy penguins making their way to or from the beach. They mate once a year and stay faithful to their mate, so they are usually seen making the walk in pairs, usually one behind the other but not always keeping in perfect step as these two are.

However, like other species that claim to be monogamous, fidelity isn’t their strong point, and they can just as often be seen in a threesome.

They are the second largest of all the penguins and are most people’s favourite. They carry their heads high, often with their beaks in the air.

It gives them that “I definitely look better than you” air. And why not? With that wonderful colouring they do encourage the Fabulosity Meter to ring loud and clear

They have learned that the tourists are no threat and are completely at ease with people around them. They even know how to pose for a photo

After many distractions we finally reach the colony. It is a sight that will be hard to forget

It is also a sound that will be hard to forget. King penguins are cantankerous and raucous. They do not suffer fools gladly, and always seem to be having an argument with their neighbours. They posture and shriek at anyone they feel is encroaching on their space or being annoying in any way. And when one starts, hundreds follow, reaching a crescendo that is almost deafening,

But the overcrowding serves a purpose. There is safety in numbers, and when the winds, rain and snow come it provides shelter and warmth. But most importantly it helps to shield the young from predators. They are hard to spot and harder to snatch when they are in the middle of a crowd

The parents are trying to protect the young from the skua, a large predatory sea bird that likes nothing better than a well fed baby penguin for lunch. The moment they see an unprotected chick they dive in for the kill

This is the end of the breeding season and most of the chicks are growing fast

But there are still a few parents sitting on eggs

Sadly, most of the chicks born this late in the season won’t survive the hardships of the fast approaching winter.

On our way back to the beach we meet many seal pups who are ready to play. They wait for us to pass

and then take great pleasure in chasing us. They move surprisingly fast and try to catch us by surprise. Like puppies they just want to play, but unlike puppies, if they manage to nip you their bite can cause a serious infection.

Other pups are playing in the stream. One seems to enjoy floating on it back

while another shows off its waving skills.

It has been an amazing day, and we don’t want to leave. And it seems as if the penguins don’t want us to leave either. As we drive off in the zodiac they give us a wonderful send off

I hope they can hear the Fabulosity Meter going crazy